Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Bryant Park Collections: Jillian Lewis

Josie/Lucy PR Email Collabo: Now with more discussion to start! (Lucy in white, Jos in light green, for those with poor retentive abilities.)

I totally agree with you in re: Chris's fear of being pigeonholed as a specific kind of desiger. I feel like the judges have ALWAYS had a really hard time expressing frustration with seeing a certain style again and again without sending a distinct "so stop doing it" vibe. It happened with Uli, it happened with Rami, it happened with Laura, it happened with Chris...interestingly enough, it's the people who IGNORE those comments that seem to do the best. I think that the problem is that the challenges have such a crazy short time period, and when you have a certain kind of person who is committed to churning out the best item they can, they will inevitably go for their specialty, which they will be most familiar with. Once they have more time, they can get more creative and tie in techniques they may know perfectly well but have not had time to use - Jillian's knits are a perfect example...how germane! - and everything comes out fine. Of course, this doesn't work with everyone, but I think it definitely explains a lot about some critiques and critique-ees.

I also take serious issue with them ripping Chris' costume background, because frankly, they are looking for a major fashion designer (in theory) who will have to show at Fashion Weeks, and seriously, if Fashion Week isnt' 60% costume I don't know what is. I mean, can you really slam a costume designer in the same season you have the fucking Heatherette boys judge?! I am so with you, he was one of my favorites all season and to see him get kind of mindfucked into a bland collection is a damn shame. How many million times did we talk about wanting him to go final three JUST for the joyous, fabulous collection we assumed he would put out?

I think the thing that bothers me the most about the judges is that they initially pick a designer because they have a clear point of view and are doing something different, but then when they see it consistently they start reprimanding them for being who they are! It doesn't make sense. It's like, do the judges want them to be who they are or do they want them to be who the judges want them to be? Fashion is so personal and style is so individual that it kind of pisses me off when they rip on someone for being who they are. I do think that the time constraints have a lot to do with someone designing in their comfort zone as well. You're going to do what you know, period. By the way, I'd love to see Nina turn around and tell Michael Kors that his fashion is boring. I can't imagine her not being bored by his shit, because he does the same thing all the time and it's always so blah!

I really wish that Chris did go all out and all costume. The piece he made with Christian and his final dress were really gorgeous, and I think if he did an over the top couture kind of collection, he would have been in the top 3 instead of Rami and he also could have won. It was just really, really disappointing for me because what I expected of him and what he ended up doing were 2 opposite ends of the spectrum.

That all being said, let's discuss the lovely, teensy Jillian's collection, which was pretty fab but not fab enough. I felt like it was a wearable collection but lacked a bit of Bryant Park level Wow Factor somehow.
I love the shape of this whole look...I think I told you of my plans to get a fedora and general hat obsession, so this totally does it for me. (NB: Pay attention, Sweet P!) I like the choice of belt, too, really ties everything together and pops in just the right place. Ah, Jillian and her Fabulous Coats. The hood piece really throws this whole look off for me. It's weird and kind of makes the shoulder and neck area seem as though it's all connected. I do like the hat and the coat though, and the belt is a great accessory for this look.
Okay THIS hat maybe not so much, but I think the scarfy product (seems too voluminous and excitable to be termed just a scarf) is SUPER cool, and the skirt is immaculately made...the volume is just right and the pleating is great. And we all know my feelings on pleats. Now see, while I like the scarf, I don't know if I really like it paired with this skirt. The skirt is just fantastic and the scarf is a little too folksy. It seems out of place. The hat is creepy.
I thought this really showed why Jillian was a great match for Ralph Lauren, but with a twist. The sweater is really neat, and the gold/yellow trim is inspired. Not sure about the riding helmet but overall it fits the look and no one's forcing me to wear one so I'll allow it. Oh how I love this sweater. It's so pretty! I do agree about Jillian and Ralph being a great fit. I think she's do well at Hilfiger too.
Um. Can I just register my dislike for this kind of off the shoulder, maybe-it's-attached-maybe-it's-not sleeve? I was looking at a wedding dress site that had weird ass sleeves like this all over the place and it totally ruined my ability to consider ANY dress on the page, is how much I hate it. I don't like this that much and the stocking...things are some kind of legging hybrid which frankly I am just not ready for. It's clearly all fantastically made, but I just don't like it. I didn't really like this look either. I know she was trying to do the armor thing, but how exactly does this fit into what we've seen? It doesn't make sense in the collection at all. It would have been really pretty strapless, I think.
I'm not quite ready for this sleeve, but I am also not totally writing it off. I LOVE the cut of the jacket without the weird over-sleeve attachment, and I think the skirt is super cool, but I'm torn on the over-sleeve thing. It kind of reminds me of the movie Return to Oz in the beginning where Dorothy is being chased by this crazy woman who is in charge of the insane asylum who is wearing this crazy old gothic black dress with super pointy puffed sleeves. It was kind of a weird movie. But I think I like this. The skirt is so fantastic and I want it! I think the little overlay on the sleeve takes the outfit in a different, bad direction. I think it would have been cuter without it. The shape is really pretty though.
I don't really hate this sweater, though I would not wear it, but I also don't get it in the context of the collection. The skirt and styling are cute but I just don't know that the sweater itself makes sense. I found it so weird that it kind of distracted me. Ugh ugh ugh! I hate the hat and the sweater so much it makes me sick. The skirt is kind of cool but it would make me look like a whale so forget it.
Okay...whither the holes, Jillian? Whither the HOLES!?! I am SO DOWN with this coat, until the HOLES! What are those about? Ventilation?! Another thing I found totally distracting, although like I say, the coat is to die for. I even like the hood on it, which normally would not be the case. The cut outs suck and they ruin an otherwise awesome piece. I love hoods so I dig it, but yeah, the holes don't make any sense whatsoever.
More holes I'm not 100% okay with. Overall I like the look, even the crazy Roman soldier hat, which I kind of want, but those holes are not my preference. I dunno man. The holes make it look kind of...trashy? I also don't like the fit of the sweater. It looks all stretched out. I'd wear the hat with some gladiator sandals. Heh.
Love those boots! I think this would be better with the Roman soldier hat, but I like the silhouette and the construction as always is fantastic. The construction of this piece is simply amazing. It's really pretty.
I love this. It's so floaty and girly and awesome, and the movement as it was coming down the runway was just terrific. A+, Jillian! This was my absolute favorite of Jillian's. It's just lovely all the way around.
I thought this was very sweet, and the super low, wide neckline masterfully handled - about 99% of those types of neckline look like hot roasted ass, and this just looks gorgeous. As with every freaking piece in every collection ever, I wish it wasn't in such a dark fabric, but I think it's lovely nonetheless. It's pretty, but I'm not crazy about it, probably because I feel as though I've seen pieces like this before and I really don't feel as though there's anything really innovative here.
The movement of this is really beautiful but I hate hate HATE the bodice...it's just so weirdly built. I mean, it's well constructed but I think it has a touch of the Victorya Boob Flattening Technique. I know she was going for the armor-inspired look but this kind of super structured, "this line is where my boob is" look doesn't really do it for me. The top feels as though it doesn't belong with the rest of the dress, which is really fantastic. I absolutely love this fabric but yeah, the top is kinda weird.










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