Monday, March 22, 2010

Couture Week: Christian Dior

Christian Dior, routinely my favorite show, rebounded HARD from the last collection of lingerie and frippery that didn't do all that much for me. The love, she has been restored.
Let's begin with accepting that deep in my creepy little heart, I am a complete elitist who would rather spend my time patrolling my vast estate seated side-saddle or snidely rebuffing the lower classes, so this whole collection appeals to me on a certain level that has little to do with fashion. I love the outsized top hat and the lovely subdued plaid, to say nothing of the glorious red jacket. Plus, it includes a crop with which to whack the street urchins with!
More lovely grey plaid. I am not sure if this is intended as a dress or just as a coat but I'd wear either configuration in a heartbeat. I think this look may be the clearest "Hot Damn That Is Some Glorious Tailoring" demonstration of the's a relatively simple look but it fits perfectly.
More dramatics in the red/grey/black palette, but the most interesting part to me is the jacket. I like the combination of the cutaway front and side fall.
I hate these boots with this look, but I love the detail of the dress itself. I'm going through an intense Big Jewelry Phase, so the necklace is a big selling point here. I like the 1700's French influence and the inclusion of some of the transparency of fabric we saw in last year's couture show.
Big hair, big hair, oh I love big hair! GREAT shade of pink, with lovely detail on the jacket. More use of transparent fabrics to great effect.
Here we switch to deeper colors. I am all about teal these days, and I think it's lovely paired with the sweep of olive green. The coat reads very peacocky to me, I love it! The shoes are very cool too...I like when designers tinker with the fundamental shape of footwear.
Holy shit, yes please. If I owned this, I would never not be having a cocktail party. The amethyst color is spectacular, and the detailed brocade in the top sets it off perfectly. I will be starting a petition encouraging people to wear opera gloves more often (to be paired with my petition for the wearing of more hats).
I'm not sure how I feel about the swath of pink at the back of this, but the overall look is lovely. I kind of wish it was on a model with darker skin tone for more contrast, but I love the design itself enough that I can deal. The bustling of the skirt is gorgeous, and I love how sweet the bodice is.
This makes me want to get married again (after hitting the lottery), and given my general apathy in the direction of Wedding Things that's quite a statement.
Love the combo of shirt-dress, draped skirt and starry tulle on the underskirt! I usually hate this type of purple too, but contrasted with the darker shade underneath it's really lovely.
The detail in the skirt on this is magnificent. I really admire the work that goes in to these's so far beyond what normal humans are capable of. Seeing these seamstresses and tailors in action was one of the more interesting parts of Valentino: The Last Emperor. The designer may come up with the ideas, but the people who make those ideas come to life are just amazingly talented.
Ever wanted to wear a universe? Me too! It looks like people of a certain income bracket are actually able to. It takes a lot of skirt to balance out a hip bow like that, but damn if it doesn't get pulled off here. Amazing.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Couture Week: Valentino

Valentino's collection didn't do anything for me. I get that they're trying to redefine the house, but you can do that without eliminating the driving elements of the brand. Valentino has always been about glamour and sophistication. While there are virtues to designers like those in Rodarte who explore deconstructionist fashion and rougher inspirations, it seems strange for Valentino to lunge so suddenly in that direction.
I like the flash of red and the floaty quality of the neutral fabrics, but the overall look leaves me cold. I kind of like the eyeshadow band and am not sure why. I am, however, sure that I like it for a reason I don't usually associate with Valentino.
Interesting texture in the dress, but the boots are the real knockout. I love this color, and I like how delicate the upper is. The show was full of these weird little eye-bands, which I think are interesting for their air of seeming accessibility. I could almost see wearing one, but...where? And for what?
Though I am anti-pantsuit, the ethereal feel of this look does have something special to it. The bodice in particular is gorgeous - the neutral colors and light fabrics make it look like the outfit is just barely swirling on to her.
I included this because it was awful. This is like...Dickensian waif meets consumptive urchin, with a dash of overtanned-elderly-Floridian-boob and completely incoherent color palette. At least the utter failure to match colors was continued in the model's chest/face makeup pairing.
This is better - I love the detailed fabricwork and the subdued green. The silhouette has something very 20s about it, but the fabric and particular detail updates it well. The shoes are particularly interesting. I think they look like plant leaves.
This seems like a direct test of the Josie Responds To Color First theory...I like the capey thing and all its pretty colors and the neutrals are just enough in tone and volume to balance it out. The blue eyeshadow is really interesting as well. That particular shade really draws out the rich tones of the rest of the outfit.
This, I enjoyed. It's the same color that was on the pretty boots above, and I just love the dramatic statement it makes. I even like the headband thingie.

I wish this collection had been...more.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Couture Week: Jean Paul Gaultier

Well, Jean Paul Gaultier's collection felt a bit more up to date this year, but added a little bit of weird forced ethnic...situation.
I feel like you can incorporate ethnic elements without being all "SOMBRERO" everywhere. Also, leggings are not pants. But I do love the color and cut of the jacket, and the boots are gorgeous. I even like the leggings/tights, I just don't like them in their role as pants.
I hate most things about this, but I wanted to share these pants with you. There were a couple versions of them, but the wackiness is most evident here. I get the chaps reference, but it seems really obvious and forced. I do not hate the shirt, though I do hate the vest. Said shirt could be used to great effect in something that is not this.
I thought this was an interesting shredded-up mantilla concept. I kind of like the skirt-pants-fringe situation...normally I hate the idea of catsuits but I think this one's really interesting and not aggressively catsuit-y.
I love this suit. I don't know who could wear it, or to what, but it is GORGEOUS. That being said, I want to burn the sombrero along with the rest of them.
This reminds me of Austin Scarlett's cornhusk dress. I think this is cool as hell and I'm so glad he left the damn sombreros out of it. There's real artistry here....I love that the center section is woven and then it all goes nuts at the top and the bottom.
I LOVE this crazy headdress and the shoulder and leg armor. For some reason, I want to wear this all the damn time. I feel like I would accomplish more if I transacted my life in fashionable armor. The dress is unfortunately reminiscent of that sparkly fabric EVERYTHING was made of in the 90s, but I feel the armor makes up for it.
I love the insane laser cut detailing. The muted color palette makes it so much more interesting. Once again, I love the hardware...the big chunky bracelets in particular are awesome.
I feel like this is the kind of thing not accessible to normal humans, but Rhianna would rock it. The detailing is fascinating and I love the rich colors.
More fascinating hardware, though I don't necessarily want the head...situation. I love the rich purple with the silver, and the whole effect is gorgeous even if it doesn't bear imagining what is required to get into it.
Does anyone know who this human is? She appears to be a singer of some kind, but I do not recognize her. I think this is the only look in which the sombrero coheres, and I love how the bodice references beautiful Mexican embroidery. Super dramatic, and a great way to close the show. I think the choice of all red was a smart really draws out the detail.

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Couture Week: Givenchy

Givenchy had some beautiful stuff with hideous, hideous styling. I am so ready for some models who don't look depressed or angry...shouldn't clothing make you feel happy?
I love how this transitions into the feathers. The cut of the suiting is perfect, but the feathery accents and the transparent panel make it more exciting. WHY WOULDN'T YOU BE HAPPY IN THIS??
This would be awesome in any color. I think leaving the center section mostly unruffled makes it a really interesting dress. I also like these particular ruffles.
Every time a big designer uses hats in their collection, I get all excited thinking people are going to start wearing hats again, and then they don't and I'm sad. Givenchy had a lot of these weird circular hats, which I didn't like that much, but they were MOST interesting with the lace. I like the type of lace used in this dress, and the detailing in the bodice is gorgeous.
I'm not sure if this is a pantsuit or a dress, but strangely enough, I like it. Really beautiful patterning.
We face the perils of this hiring pasty, angry models policy in play here...this dress would be gorgeous on someone against whose skin you could actually see the upper bodice section. I'm not sure I love the slit in this piece, but I like the funky ruffling a lot.
THIS one gets it right, I think. Zoe Saldana wore this to the Oscars and it looked gorgeous on her skin. I guess it wasn't very popular but I thought it was perfect for her - really pretty and fun, but a nice funky choice for a young actress. I love the tiered ruffles so much!
There were a bunch of weird pantsuits along this line, but I thought this was the mot effective one. I don't actually like pantsuits, but I do like the very graphic effect of the mostly-sheer top and the crazy fabric on the bottom.

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Couture Week: Elie Saab

Elie Saab: grace, beauty, classic femininity. If the Greek goddesses had to buy from modern fashion labels, it would be Badgley Mischka or Elie Saab, and Saab threatens to pull ahead with this collection.
The whole collection is so, so soft...I could not rock it. I could not rock it for many reasons, including things like "swearing too much" and "having tattoos." I love the delicacy of this dress, and the one below.
Soft colors and florals throughout. I like the shoes and I LOVE the ripple-y feeling stockings. The dress here is lovely, and I like what the shrug adds to the mix.
Just as there is power in the goddesses along with gentility, you do see some structure in these dresses. I love the transition from very firm structure in the bodice to flowery softness at the bottom.
This was as bold as color got in the collection. I love the watery effect carried into the dress itself, and the bodice is beautiful.
Lots of plant imagery throughout. I love the combo of the flowery motif and the gauzy transparent parts.
I actually can't tell if this is reflection from the weird runway (some kind of silvery contact paper? Cool water effect without the wet) or the dress being dyed this way, but either way, it's a graceful look.
The color and texture of this one is awesome. She looks like a waterfall.
This was the final look, which I love but for the turban thing. I think these dresses are most effective with the simple hairstyles that the designers used, and the turban adds a different feel to it all. Of course, that doesn't mean that this isn't a gorgeous, gorgeous dress.

Monday, March 8, 2010

Couture Week: Chanel

Oh, Kaiser Lagerfeld, you surprise me! I fully admit that for the first couple looks, I was writing my review in my head, and it went something like "oh great, more f@#king pastel suits, glad to see Chanel continues to bore." But man, after those first few, the collection turned into sheer awesome, and the Chanel collection may be one of my favorites of the season. Bravo!
All the models were rocking these bouffy hairdos with the streaks of grey. Grey hair has been all over the runways this season, notably in Dior's couture collection, but I think Chanel was the house that used it to greatest effect. I also love these tights that most of the models were wearing. I picked this dress as representative of the pastel suits and dresses that comprised the first part of the show because it shows the pastel palette and the beautiful classic cut. Nice, but not necessarily that revolutionary.
I like all the crazy texture in play's really amazing that the crazy silver booties are the element that would tie so many outfits together, but here we are. I also like the silver half gloves.
I like the hard/soft dynamic in play here. The metallics give it real edge but the filmy feel of the dress itself is so sweet.
There's a very interesting shape about this dress, and although I'm not sure about the knee-level intersection, I like the overall effect.
Again, the hard/soft feeling is in play. I like the horizontal banding in conjunction with the soft, drapey middle. The capelet-esque thing adds an interesting background to the whole affair.
I have always enjoyed this kind of neckline for some reason - there was a red shirt I had in high school that had the same cut and I am serious when I say I wore that shit OUT - but there's an added interest in the elaborate piecing of the fabric and shoulders.
The best part of this collection had a very architectural feel to it, and this was the shot I chose as definitive of the whole. I love the rising wings on the shoulders, and the draping makes the whole look reminiscent of a grand building on the river. Love this, wish I could afford it.
I thought this was just classic beauty. The rosy draped section of satin is gorgeous, and even more so against the detailed, lacy section of the bodice and the accents at hip level.
There is such a thing as being too in to yourself, Kaiser.
I enjoyed the light, airiness of this look. I don't know if I love the boot version of the silver shoes but man do I love the top. The balance between the two is lovely, and overall I think it's very fairy tale.
I WILL NOT APOLOGIZE FOR LOVING THIS SUIT. I will, however, admir that said love is somewhat mysterious. The dress is beautifully over-the-top and is perhaps the ONLY garment that could balance the insanity that is this suit. I'm paying for the dinner, top-shelf booze and tickets to the show of the wearer's choice for the first man who takes me out while wearing ths get up.